Emmaus Abbey
Emmaus Abbey was one of our favorite places to visit while in Prague. We really liked it there for 2 particular reasons. First, the old Gothic church and cloister are quite beautiful. I wrote earlier about the Gothic and Baroque churches we saw. Although we expected the Baroque churches to be heavily ornamented we were surprised by the ornamentation in the Gothic churches. The Gothic churches while subdued compared to the Baroque, were still more ornamented than we were used to seeing. The appealing part of Emmaus Abbey was the simplicity of the building and grounds especially in comparison to what we had seen at other churches. The ornamentation was restrained. As a result, it created a peaceful mood that encourages quiet contemplation and prayer.
The second appealing feature was that there were very few people there (which also enhances the quiet mood). Prague gets a lot of tourists and most sites are swarming with people. At Emmaus we saw all of 5 people during our visit. Two of these worked there. It seemed to me that the other 3 people were either staff or parishioners but it is possible they were tourists. With so few people we essentially had the place to ourselves. We are able to see everything at our own pace without having to fight the crowds. The lack of people also made taking photographs that much easier too. I was even able to combine two of my favorite types of photography; architectural and street photography.
The History
Emmaus has a rather interesting history. It was founded in 1347 as a Benedictine Abbey featuring a Gothic church and of course, cloisters. A few years later in 1360, the cloisters were decorated with a wall paintings of Old and New Testaments scenes. The cloisters also feature frescoes with bits of Pagan symbolism from the 14th century. Some of these are still visible but very faded.
In the early 1600s two “onion dome” Baroque towers were added to the front façade. This is an early example of the blending of architectural styles Prague is famous for. In the late 1800s the onion domes were replaced with sharp spires.
Fast forward to World War II and the Abbey fell on hard times. During the war the monastery was seized by the Gestapo and the monks were expelled. The monastery building and vaults along with the two towers were destroyed by U.S. bombing in early 1945. The modern roof with steeples was added in the 1960s. This is yet another example of the blending of architectural styles. The abbey was returned to the Benedictine order in 1990.
The Steeples
The modern steeples are what make Emmaus Abbey so notable. Because of them, no one thinks, just another church. They are a 1960s addition to a 1300s Gothic church. What an amazing blend of styles. And, they work so well together. My first glimpse of them was when I crossed the small plaza in front of the Ministry of Health on the way to the church. There was a small “window” that provides a beautiful view of the abbey. This is my photo from that window.
After returning home I came across the photo below while doing research for this blog post. I was excited to see it for two reasons. First, it shows the two sharp spires that existed before 1945. Second, this shot was taken from almost the same vantage point as my photo above. I took my shot by the railing in the foreground directly through the “window”. What a cool coincidence!
Another view of the abbey and the steeples from the town square below the abbey.
The Cloisters
Perhaps the most popular aspect of old monasteries are the cloisters. For some reason, they just feel so right both as photography subjects and places to walk. Maybe it’s the light, or perhaps how close you get to the details of the building (as compared to the vaulted ceilings in the church). It could be that it gives you the feeling of exploring in a beautiful tunnel of light and detail never knowing what you’re going to find. Whatever it is, I love them! I know it’s not an original composition but I couldn’t help but go for the classic cloisters composition; the corner shot.
The open door to Paradise Court adds a further bit of mystery to exploring the cloisters.
As you walk around the cloisters you get a wonderful view of Paradise Court. It’s a beautiful, quiet little garden. In the center is a wood cross sculpture. The cross in not made of wood but is the void left in the wood surrounding it.
A more direct view of the cross in Paradise Court.
The Interiors
The interior of the Church of Our Lady really exemplifies the concept of simplicity. Yes there is ornamentation but nothing compared to the all the other churches we saw on our trip to Prague and Vienna. I like this much better. Ornamentation should have a purpose other than just calling attention to itself. That is the case with Emmaus Abbey. No distraction to pull your attention away from the real reason you went to church.
The Imperial Chapel is about ornate as it gets at Emmaus.
Architecture and Street Photography
Emmaus also turned out to be a great place to combine two of my favorite types of photography; architectural and street photography. I was able to get a couple of good street shots even though there weren’t many people there. After all, sometimes all it takes is one person.
The first shot was of just one person walking in the cloisters. I included it in an earlier post but I really liked it. So, I’m posting it again.
The next two photos are actually the same photo. The second is just a tighter crop of the first and then upscaled. It is just simply a shot of a single person walking past the façade of the church. I think that the combination with the architecture makes it a compelling shot. I like both versions for different reasons. So much so that I’m keeping both.
Leave A Comment And Share
I’d like your opinion. Of the two versions of Leaving The Abbey, which version do you prefer and why? Please leave a comment in the comment box below.
